Frequently Asked Questions

Minnesota's energy code places Crow Wing County and Cass County in Climate Zone 7, and the efficientwindows.org summary of that code lists R-49 for ceilings in that zone. DOE's target for an existing Zone 7 attic that has little or no insulation is R-60. Code applies to new work where your city has adopted it, so check with the local building office for a remodel.

Fiberglass and cellulose slow heat but let air move through them, so they work best on top of a sealed surface. Spray foam fills the gap it is sprayed into and stops air as well as heat. That is why foam goes on rim joists, kneewalls and rooflines, and loose fill often goes on the open attic floor.

In Brainerd, closed-cell is the usual pick for basement walls, crawl space walls, rim joists, steel buildings and roof decks, since it is denser, higher in R-value per inch and slows vapor. Open-cell costs less per square foot and works in interior walls and some above-grade cavities. We name the foam for each area on the quote.

No. Foam can fill a gap, but a roof, plumbing or foundation leak has to be fixed at the source. Water behind foam can rot wood without being seen. If we find an active leak, we tell you and wait until it is repaired before we insulate that area.

Unlike open-cell or fiberglass, closed-cell foam takes on very little water, which is why it is used against concrete and on basement rim joists. It is not a roof or a foundation waterproofing system, though. It helps keep moisture from condensing on cold surfaces; it does not replace flashing, gutters or drainage.

HomeGuide's national figures put spray foam at $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot installed, with rim joists at $2,000 to $2,500 and an attic at $3,000 to $8,000. The size of the area, the foam type, access and any removal change the total. The written estimate after our visit is the price.

Ice dams form when heat leaking into the attic melts roof snow, and Crow Wing County's 60 psf ground snow load means a lot of snow up there. Sealing the attic bypasses, often with foam, and then bringing the insulation to depth cuts the heat that does the melting. It works best paired with good attic ventilation.

Yes. The plan depends on whether you will heat it all winter or let it go cold. A heated cabin needs the crawl space or floor, the walls and the attic dealt with; a cabin left cold may need less. Tell us how you use it and we will price the options.

Usually yes for rim joists, crawl space and basement walls, steel buildings and roof decks with no attic above, because it slows vapor and holds more R-value per inch. In interior walls or above-grade cavities, open-cell often does the job for less. We price both where both could work.

It depends on the target R-value and the foam. Closed-cell at R-5 to R-7 per inch gets a meaningful R-value in a few inches. We write the planned thickness on the quote.

HomeGuide's advice is to allow 24 hours or more. For a detached shop or garage, it may not affect the house at all. We confirm timing for your job.

In heated spaces like basements, yes. For cold attics, crawl spaces or unheated buildings, the foam and the surface need to be in a working temperature range, so we add heat or plan a milder day.

Closed-cell foam slows vapor and keeps warm, moist air off cold surfaces where it would condense. It does not fix a leak, and it is not waterproofing. Leaks get repaired first.

The efficientwindows.org summary of Minnesota's energy code lists R-49 for ceilings in Climate Zone 7, where Crow Wing County sits. For an attic with no insulation at all, DOE's figure in that zone is R-60. Local adoption and permits vary, so check with your city for a remodel.

Only partly. Most ice dams start with warm air leaking into the attic, so sealing those leaks comes first. Insulation added afterward holds the gain, and open soffit vents keep the roof deck cold.

Moist air from the house is leaking into the attic and freezing on the cold roof boards and nails. Sealing the ceiling and venting bath fans outdoors are the usual fixes.

Often, yes, provided nothing in it is damp or dirty. We often need to pull some back to seal the bypasses underneath, then blow new fill over the top.

Spring through fall is easiest, since attics are unheated. We can do some sealing in winter, but extreme cold limits foam and makes the work slower.

In a Brainerd basement, usually yes. The rim is a big air leak along the whole perimeter, and closed-cell seals and insulates it in one pass without trapping moisture behind a batt.

Before. With bare walls the foam goes on fast and evenly, and you do not have to cut into new drywall later.

Batts slow heat loss but let air through, and moist air can condense on the cold wood behind them. That is why many old rim batts are damp or moldy when we pull them out.

If you plan to condition the crawl space with a sealed vapor barrier and insulated walls, yes. If the floor above is insulated instead, the crawl space stays vented. We walk you through both for your house.

We fix nothing by covering water. Drainage, grading or crack repair should come first. Once the walls stay dry, closed-cell foam works well there.

Stopping that drip is a big reason owners spray foam in steel buildings. Closed-cell on the underside of the roof steel keeps warm, moist air off the cold metal, so condensation stops forming.

It depends on how warm you keep it and how often. A shop heated every day needs more than one heated on weekends. We set the thickness by your use and write it on the quote.

Blankets can work while the facing stays intact, but torn facing or open seams let moist air reach the steel. Foam seals the seams and bonds to the metal, so it holds up better against condensation.

Minnesota Statute 326B.121 exempts agricultural buildings from the State Building Code with narrow exceptions, but a hobby shop or a building with living space is different. Check with your city or township first.

If the building can be heated to a working temperature, yes. Otherwise spring through fall is easier and faster.

For an open attic floor over a sealed ceiling, blown-in reaches the target R-value for less money. Foam wins on rim joists, rooflines and tight spots where keeping out air and moisture counts the most.

Both work. Cellulose packs more R-value per inch and slows air a bit better; fiberglass is lighter and settles less. We explain the trade-offs for your attic.

With fiberglass at R-2.2 to R-2.9 per inch and cellulose at R-3.1 to R-3.8 (HomeGuide), reaching R-49 to R-60 means a layer well over a foot deep. The quote lists the depth.

Often yes, with dense-pack cellulose through small holes that are plugged afterward. We check for old wiring and blocking first.

Often, yes. Dry, clean insulation can stay, and new fill goes on top. Wet, moldy, rodent-damaged or smoke-damaged material should come out first, and so should anything that blocks the air sealing.

Vermiculite is a pebbly, grey-brown or gold loose fill. If you see it, do not disturb it. Have a lab test a sample; a positive asbestos result means removal by an abatement contractor.

Most attics take a day or less with a vacuum, depending on size, depth and access. Sealing and new insulation can follow the same day or the next.

Yes. HomeAdvisor notes foam costs more to remove. Fixr's range is $1.50 to $3 per square foot, up to about $5 for hand chipping.